PasneserPark

The hammock is there for a reason. Bring a book, lie back, and let the mountain do the rest. This is the activity. You don't need a plan.

Walk up to the rocks behind the tents in the hour before sunset. The light over the valley is extraordinary. Bring something to drink and just sit there.

There are board games, cards, and space to draw, write or think. If you feel inspired — go for it. If you don't — that's fine too.

Behind the park is a beautiful hiking area. Walk up the hill behind the tents. It gets steeper but the views open up fast. Morning is best — cooler, quieter, and the light is incredible.

A half-hour walk down the hill brings you to Shelcan village — a quiet, real Albanian mountain village. At the top of the village stands the Church of St. Nicholas (Kisha e Shën Kollit), an Orthodox church that became a Cultural Monument of Albania in 1948.

Inside, the walls are completely covered with frescoes by Onufri. A bit lower than the church is Tolli's café — very nice man, excellent coffee and also has beer and of course raki and chips : )

About 22 km southeast of Elbasan lies Gjinar, a mountain village in the heart of the Shpati range. Tourism is only just beginning here — it's still genuinely authentic.

There's a Thursday bazaar where all local farmers sell their crops and where you can also buy goats, sheep and donkeys, and some second-hand clothing and tools — in short, everything you'd expect in a mountain village. Pine forests, canyon walks, and mountain air that actually tastes different.

From Gjinar, you can hike towards Mount Bukanik (1,831m) — a serious hike but stunning.

The highest peak in the area. The trailhead starts around 1,500m, so the climb itself is manageable. Go with good shoes, water, and an early start. The summit view over the Shpati range is worth every step.

You already know where this is — it's the landmark on the route to PasneserPark. Lots of flowers, Albanian music, traditional food, good atmosphere. Good portions, genuinely good. The owner speaks good English. Worth stopping for lunch or dinner.

A restaurant inside the old Ottoman castle walls of Elbasan. The setting alone is worth it. Order tavë kosi — baked lamb with yoghurt, Elbasan's most famous dish. This is the place to try it properly.

Good pizza in Elbasan city. Reliable, popular with locals, worth a stop if you're in town.

Pizzeria that also does Albanian dishes — a good combination. A bit more upscale. Solid food, good value.

Wood-fired pizza and premium burgers. Artisan, fresh, well made. Rruga 11 Nentori, Elbasan.

The old castle walls of Elbasan date back to the 15th century, built by Sultan Mehmed II. You can walk on them and through them — the old center is inside. There's hospitality, including Kala Restaurant, and it's still part of daily life in the city.

The Ethnographic Museum of Elbasan shows traditional Albanian life — crafts, clothing, household items from the region. Small museum, but gives a good picture of how life here used to be.

The fruit and vegetable market of Elbasan. All kinds of fruit, vegetables and also nuts, oil, homemade wines, rakia, olive oil. Lots of local but also imports. Busiest in the mornings. Rruga Thoma Kalefi.

There are many coffee shops. Coffee and raki are the most sold, often there's also beer and chips.